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Gas Dryer Burner Will Not Fire/Ignite

 
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toddle



Joined: 16 Jun 2006
Posts: 1
Location: Grand Rapids, MI

PostPosted: Sat Aug 26, 2006 2:54 am    Post subject: Gas Dryer Burner Will Not Fire/Ignite Reply with quote

We just bought a new house, which came with all the appliances...including a gas dryer. The dryer does not have a pilot, but what I THINK is a ceramic coil igniter. The thing clicks real loud when the igniter starts heating up...but it never fires. The igniter shuts off ten seconds or so later. If the heat on the machine is turned way up, it will continue going on and off the whole time the dryer runs. I have fidgeted with all the gas valves and shut-offs, and they are all open. We also have a gas water heater, and it IS working, so the gas is definitely on to the house.

I have been reluctant to disconnect the gas line...don't really want gas flowing into my new house because I can't get it back together correctly. We're not smelling any gas in the laundry room at this point...which could be why the thing isn't lighting (no gas to the machine).

What should I do? Is there anything I can do BEFORE calling someone else to come an fix it? Anything I forgot to try? Is it smart to pop the gas line open myself? Is there anything I need to have on hand to make sure it seals again when I stick it back together?
Even IF I took the gas line apart, I don't know what it would gain me if here's nothing else I can do. At any rate, who would I call? Call an appliance repair dude, or the gas company?

Other than a possible burnt up motor on the garbage disposal, everything else about the house is pretty rad...really Smile
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handnhammer



Joined: 13 May 2006
Posts: 60
Location: Ann Arbor, MI

PostPosted: Sat Aug 26, 2006 5:41 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

First, read this article. It will give you the basics on how a gas dryer works
It could be the igniter, the radiant sensor, or the gas valve. Its highly unlikely it's the supply of gas to the dryer, especially when your water heater is working fine. I wouldn't even mess with the line leading up to the dryer, especially if it's propane! (Propane is much more dangerous to work with than natural gas, because it pools and requires a lower fuel-to-air ratio to ignite) The fact that you don't smell gas just means the safety systems on the dryer are working, and gas isn't flowing through the gas valve because something is wrong.

Just a couple of questions to trouble-shoot the situation:
  1. Do you know positively that the igniter is glowing? Is the whole thing glowing? If it is, then the igniter is fine. Make sure you don't jar, bump, or touch this style of ignitor. They are very sensitive and can fail easily.
  2. Do you here clicking before and/or after the igniter starts glowing (if it is)?
  3. Is the dryer still under warrenty? If so have a repair guy come out and fix it.

Quote:
The thing clicks real loud when the igniter starts heating up...but it never fires.
This is most likely one side of the gas valve opening up. Normal, but you need the other side to open up to get gas flowing to the burner. This won't happen if the radiant sensor or secondary coil (on gas valve) is broke.
Quote:
If the heat on the machine is turned way up, it will continue going on and off the whole time the dryer runs.
This is normal. When the drum temp sensor cools down to a certain temp, the burner cycle start over again, until it reaches a certain hot temp.
Quote:
What should I do? Is there anything I can do BEFORE calling someone else to come an fix it?
As stated before, I wouldn't mess with the gas supply lines, this isn't your problem. If you know how to use and have a multimeter, I would test the resistance on the radiant sensor and gas valve solinoids. Call a appliance repair shop to get the resistance info for your make/model dryer.
Quote:
Is it smart to pop the gas line open myself? Is there anything I need to have on hand to make sure it seals again when I stick it back together?
It's normally safe to disconnect only the flexalbe line coming off the dryer, after you close the closest upstream shutoff valve. If your house has natural gas and not propane, it's safe to turn off the nearest upstream gas shutoff valve and take apart black pipe plumbing. To seal threads on black pipe, you need pipe dope that is ok for gas applications, and leak a detection solution (soapy water). You don't need to do this for your problem though!
Quote:
At any rate, who would I call? Call an appliance repair dude, or the gas company?
For your problem, you would need to call a appliance repair person. BTW, if you ever work with plumbing/replumbing of natural gas lines, have the gas company come out and check it for leaks...many will do it for free.
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handnhammer



Joined: 13 May 2006
Posts: 60
Location: Ann Arbor, MI

PostPosted: Sat Aug 26, 2006 5:43 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Quote:
Other than a possible burnt up motor on the garbage disposal

Did you check the breaker on the bottom of disposal? It might be tripped.
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