Taping Inside Corner with Joint Compound

TX_Handy · Joined: 26 Apr 2008 Posts: 2 Location: Dallas, TX

Hello, first post here so be gentle with me Smile

I am going to put in new drywall in a ceiling that used to be covered with tiles, I know the ceiling should go up first and the walls later. How can I make the transition between the new rock and the already finished wall look good.

I could always use crown to cheat a bit but I wanted to know what you pros think Smile

jholmes · Joined: 23 Mar 2006 Posts: 63 Location: Eagan, MN

Though I don't consider myself a professional, I have done a lot of sheetrock work.

This is what I would do:

Easy - conceal the corner with crown molding. The good thing about this is not having to repaint the walls. Bad thing...cost. Though there are some inexpensive engineered materials out there.

Harder...but cheaper:
- Apply mesh joint tape to the inside corner, directly onto the drywall. it's sticky so you don't need to put down a layer of mud.

- Lay down a small (3") wide layer of hot mud on both sides of the corner, with a regular trowel/knife.

- With a dampened corner trowel/knife carefully form the corner buy pressing the trowel into the corner (the trowel is flexible), and gliding it along the corner. Make sure to rid the knife of any access mud before taking additional swipes at the corner.

- Let the mud set. I said to use hot mud for the first layer because it sets within a prescribed amount of time (indicated on the bag) but remains damp so you can carve off any high spots or ridges. It also doesn't shrink so it's great for filling large voids (corners). I always use hot mud for the first coat, because it saves a lot of time and sanding.

- After the mud sets ( I use 90 min hot mud, because it gives you about 50 minutes of working time) go over the corner with a knife and shave off any ridges or high areas.

- Let the corner dry for half or full day. Go over the corner with lightweight joint compound. You might not need the corner trowel any more because the corner is already formed. I use a 9-12" knife so the edge feathers out real nice and the corner looks as close to a right angle as possible.

- Let it dry. It will dry really quick because it isn't that thick. Then feather out the edges with a damp sponge if needed. Looking for any imperfections. I use a flashlight held up to wall. Any imperfections will be highlighted with a shadow. At this point I also use a sanding sponge to make the corner perfect. You only need light pressure when sanding because the lightweight compound sands very easy, and again, it's not that thick.

- Next go over any imperfections with more lightweight joint compound. Let it dry and accomplish one last sanding over the whole surface.

- Vacuum all the dust off the wall, prime and paint.

A couple more tips: 1. When I say hot-mud I mean setting type joint compound. It's the stuff you buy in the bags and you have to mix. I don't mix much at a time, so I just use a metal paint mixer that you attach to your drill. Again, I use the 90 minute stuff. 2. When using the premixed lightweight joint compound I use it straight out of the bucket, and only add water if I need to make it workable, which is rare. Also, add a couple drops of dishwashing detergent (Dawn for example). Keeps little bubbles from forming when applying it. This is highly effective trade secret.

Hope this helps!

jholmes · Joined: 23 Mar 2006 Posts: 63 Location: Eagan, MN

More picture...

webmaster · Posted: Sun Apr 27, 2008 10:18 pm Post subject:

Picts from jholmes.

TX_Handy · Joined: 26 Apr 2008 Posts: 2 Location: Dallas, TX

Hi JB,

Sure sound like a pro compared to me lol, Thanks a million for the great tips, I have printed and will make sure I follow your instructions.

You might just have saved my weekend Smile

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